By: Tamara Arnew
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| PHOTO CREDIT: ALFREDO PIOLA, NEW YORK TIMES |
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| PHOTO CREDIT: ALFREDO PIOLA, NEW YORK TIMES |
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| PHOTO CREDIT: FRANCOIS GUILLOT, THE DAILY BEAST |
The Zen concept of Viktor & Rolf's first couture collection since their departure thirteen years ago, could not simply be regarded from a single behind-the-wall perspective that is traditional to Japanese rock gardens. The continuity of their technical black fabric choice through the pieces envisaged modernity with elemental meditation on garment shape and finite detail.
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| PHOTO CREDIT: STYLE.COM |
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| PHOTO CREDIT: STYLE.COM |
Maison Martin Margiela allows their masks continue to deceive us but never is the aesthetic inspiration of their collections dissimulated, even if the masks are made of Swarovski's collaborative material Crystalacite. The pieces were modified, made and reclaimed from found vintage garments, giving sustainability and the timelessness of eclectic dressing a forefront in their artist: an embroidered Eastern bird overlay, a Beijing opera coat, bared bust form tops and red platform boots. Denim was focal to styling a number of the looks, the most liberal (as of yet) approach to the daywear trending Fall couture shows.
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| PHOTO CREDIT: STYLE.COM |
Valentino was of the illustrated age with a collection of pieces that could easily have been for Julia Leigh's Sleeping Beauty or an antlered doe-fawn. The woodsman feel of the collection had all the regality of river pearls and an iron-vine welded menagerie with the curious nook and cranny nature of a herringbone coat overtop of something more extravagant.
Sources: Style.com, Dazed Digital, The Daily Beast, The New York Times
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