Friday, March 1, 2013

PFW: Ann Demeulemeester

By: Tamara Arnew
Fall’s Fashion Weeks have been more about the definition of designers then the nouveau musings of them and Ann Demeulemeester’s collection shown today in Paris was her inky and androgynous vanguard without compromise. To the tip of each feathered quill bowler hat and the rounded toe of romanced-about combat boots, designs were seemingly flower child of the Yakuza influenced. Slim cutting, high-waisted men’s trousers were tucked into the tops of the boots and detailed with gi-wrapped simple buckle belts. 

Leather corsets were oversized in a way that accentuated the shape of the cropped military coats without losing delicacy to combativeness. Shirt dresses were nightingales in sheer chiffon with the designer’s statement feather pins reflected in front fringing and wrapped leather strap bracelets. Even the fur collars could stand-alone. Demeulemeester has deconstructed and channeled the idea that women guised in black and white ombre floor-length layers and turtlenecks could be un-assumed warriors.

1 comment:

  1. It's a stunning collection. I have always enjoyed Ann's use of this particular fur used here for the collars.