By: Tamara Arnew
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style.com |
Fall’s Fashion Weeks have been
more about the definition of designers then the nouveau musings of them and Ann
Demeulemeester’s collection shown today in Paris was her inky and androgynous vanguard
without compromise. To the tip of each feathered quill bowler hat and the
rounded toe of romanced-about combat boots, designs were seemingly flower child
of the Yakuza influenced. Slim cutting, high-waisted men’s trousers were tucked
into the tops of the boots and detailed with gi-wrapped simple buckle belts.
Leather corsets were oversized in a way that accentuated the shape of the
cropped military coats without losing delicacy to combativeness. Shirt dresses
were nightingales in sheer chiffon with the designer’s statement feather pins
reflected in front fringing and wrapped leather strap bracelets. Even the fur
collars could stand-alone. Demeulemeester has deconstructed and channeled the
idea that women guised in black and white ombre floor-length layers and
turtlenecks could be un-assumed warriors.
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style.com |
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style.com |
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style.com |
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style.com |
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style.com |
It's a stunning collection. I have always enjoyed Ann's use of this particular fur used here for the collars.
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